Ultimaker 3 feeder adjustment free. A visual Ultimaker troubleshooting guide

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

By whoneycApril 14, in Improve your 3D prints. I am having a consistent issues with my feeder grinding filament rather than feeding. When the filament gets stuck at the extruder head or flattened by the feeder axis, the toothed wheel grinds a semi-circle into the filament. See here. This is occurring nigh-constantly on /16402.txt 1 of my machine. It always occurs during the same point of the cycle: about two layers in, the surface of the print begins to look sputtered as it is failing.

Then nothing comes out. The device in question is an Ultimaker 3 Extended with up-to-date firmware. The issues have occurred across multiple brands of filament. Ultimaker 3 feeder adjustment free doubt there are any humidity issues; brand new filament has problems too. To date I have attempted the following to fix the issue:.

Feeder spring tension adjustment. Info at the bottom of this page. When it is below ultimaker 3 feeder adjustment free point, it doesn’t feed anything from the beginning. Use of compressed air duster to clean ground PLA material from feeder. Info at the middle of this page. What’s going on here? Is there something I have not tried to remedy this? Does anyone have microsoft word 2016 keeps freezing windows 10 free tensiometer which can be used to check the force applied by the spring of a working feeder?

Should I contact the distributor at this point to request help? May 20, Sorry I didn’t see this earlier. If I don’t answer you feel free to post simply a » gr5″ once per day until I notice.

June 6, It’s a spot where wear and tear can occur on the lever if the filament isn’t quite sitting straight on the bearing; it’s not super common but we’ve seen a few cases. I just put the label on the box ac. April 15, I find the WedgeBot an indispensable tool when working with feeder problems. I recommend to set the feeder gauge to the minimum, then open the feeder case if you don’t set the feeder to the minimum then good luck looking for the spring and other parts ;-take a brush and thoroughly clean the knurled bolt.

You should not have to push hard. The third thing you can check is if your Bowden tube is somehow damaged. Take a one meter long piece of filament which has not yet run through the feeder aka without bitemarks and run it through the detached Bowden tube from the back to ultimaker 3 feeder adjustment free front.

If you feel a sudden increase in resistance, then exchanging the Bowden tube might be a good idea. I recommend to set the feeder gauge to the minimum, then open the feeder case if ultimaker 3 feeder adjustment free don’t set the feeder to the minimum then good luck looking for the spring and other parts.

As stated in my original post, I have cleaned the knurled bolt with canned air. I’m not sure if «canned air» or «air duster» are terms used in your regional version of English, but the product I am referring to can be seen in this image. The PLA was hand-pushed through the extruder core during execution of ultimaker 3 feeder adjustment free hot pull cleaning method.

I forgot to add that the Bowden tube appears undamaged. There are no crimps in the PTFE tubing and filament has no problems getting to the print head during the initial filament loading. If it has tons of retractions that could be the issue. Look at the part in layer view and check the «blue» checkbox to see travel moves – the lighter blue lines lilac?

If you have too many of those on the same spot of filament you will get the grinding you describe. If you have too many retractions on the same piece of filament you can grind it to dust.

You can tell cura to limit retractions ultimaker 3 feeder adjustment free 10 per a given spot of filament. Do this by setting «maximum retration count» to 10 and «minimum extrusion distance» to your retraction distance 4. Maybe you should post how fast you are printing to see if you are going too fast things speed up on the second layer. Please post. Sure thing. There are quite a few retractions. I assume this is a necessity when swapping cores for the breakaway.

See attached image for retractions. I can’t post the gcode due to NDA issues, but this image alone shouldn’t violate that. I decided to twiddle with the tensioner again and try to print. I’m on a deadline for this project, so I have to keep trying. Perhaps I will have ultimaker 3 feeder adjustment free things the right way by adjusting the tension a bit or gave sacrifices to the correct unholy entity. In this image there are snips of the failed filament.

Clockwise from top left is: the ground down ultimaker 3 feeder adjustment free that ended the run, a section from the middle of нажмите для деталей remaining filament which appears to have had grinding issues, and the filament next to the final failure point which shows repeated grinding spots which support the sputtering look I observed. This image shows the state of the feeder when I removed the casing.

The dust is ultimaker 3 feeder adjustment free a single run, as it was cleaned prior to this attempt. This method is useful to know. I used a large screwdriver to hold the gate open on the feeder rather than адрес WedgeBot which requires a printer to use.

I have some notes. DO NOT use the unassisted pulling method if you have had grinding issues. It makes them worse. The filament snaps off at the weak point created by the grinding. This puts about 2 mm of filament sticking out of the PTFE tube to grab hold of with pliers. Pulling with that small amount of grip is impossible. When attempting to remove filament from a feeder with grinding issues, I recommend attempting ultimaker 3 feeder adjustment free do an «assisted reverse» of the filament.

To perform the assisted reverse, if it is not obvious from the name, you must: slightly increase the grip from the screw to account for the divot in the filament, then use the «Move» function on ultimaker 3 feeder adjustment free printer to reverse the filament.

While that is occurring, apply a gentle pulling force to the filament near the reel. The goal is not to yank the filament free, just to get it out of the divot so the feeder can remove it properly. After you are out of the grindhole, reset your tensioner screw to the position you had set it at and let the go about the usual «Change» process. If your filament breaks off inside the PTFE tube, you should remove the PTFE tube from the print head pain in the ass and remove ultimaker 3 feeder adjustment free filament from the head end.

This is not ideal. Disassembling the head for me is an awkward process. Who’s bright idea was it to put his tall Ultimaker 3 feeder adjustment free on top of a double tall Lack-rack where it is hard to get hidden games for 10 free from the top? As a result of the constant stream of plastic grind pushed up the tube as the feeder stops and starts having problems during a run, there is a new problem.

On my latest attempt, the filament broke inside of the Bowden tube, but not because of any breakage I learned from in the first part of this post.

No amount of pliers, raw strength, or yelling could dislodge pull it out in the direction of the feeder. Indeed, when I took apart the print head and pulled the filament with pliers from the other end, it took a solid minute for it to budge. After the filament was removed and after the swearing had subsidedI attempted to use canned air to blow the particles out.

This time they would not budge. My theory is that static is building up inside the Bowden tube as the extra friction from the grinding occurs.

I am по этому сообщению out humidity issues causing sticking inside the tube. The humidity in my shop is moderate currently. Additionally, I observed static problems at the extruder head. This causes the filament to stick to the printer head and glob up. I used some wire to connect the metal extruder head to a metal desk and that temporarily relieves the up-and-sideways issue, but it does not fix the overall static issues.

Obviously I will be making attempts to better ground the machine. I have requested some help from the supplier. More input and suggestions from the community are very welcome. When you clean out the feeder, did you also really clean off the knurled wheel? That ultimaker 3 feeder adjustment free can grab and build up filament parts and eventually make it very slick and not grab, but grind.

When you notice it is grinding, are you making sure to pull any and all lengths of PLA out of the bowden tube that were ground down? If not, the ground down parts create little flanges on even the most minor grindings that help add friction. I make sure to pull the filament all the way out of the bowden tube That will show you how much friction it creates because I have had to heave real hard sometimes to get it through until I see absolutely no more tooth marks on the filament.

When you clean out the filament fluff, did you pull the bowden tube off and clean it out very well? Do so by taking a piece of tissue or paper towel and ‘plunging’ it through the tube with waste filament.

If that gets dragged into the bowden tube, it ultimaker 3 feeder adjustment free help create friction.

 
 

Feeder tension – Ultimaker 3D printers – Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts – Create an account or sign in to comment

 

By niamor2 , June 20, in Improve your 3D prints. I’e got a serious problem with my last print with PVA on my Ultimaker 3 : the material stopped extruding after 1hr, and while trying to unload the PVA filament I realized it was stuck in the feeder. Then I removed the bowden tube at both ends, removed the PVA filament from the printhead, and cut the filament under the feeder.

But I still couldn’t remove the filament, whatever side I pulled on :. I guess that might be caused by a degradation of the filament by ambient humidity : the spool was left out in the open air for more than one month. But I still don’t know how to remove the filament from the feeder. May be I could try moistening the filament in the feeder to soften it and remove it more easily?

Or will I have to disassemble the feeder completely? Any ideas? Did you squeeze the lever on the feeder? Lift that lever up by squeezing with some fingers on the top of the finger and some on that lever. Also consider printing wedgebot asap:. Yes I tried but it didn’t change anything. Squeezing the lever or not, thye filament remains stuck I can see that your feeder is really tight and that is the cause of the ground up filaments.

Loosen it up a bit. Turn the screw so the marker is at the top. Get a nylon paint brush and vacuum cleaner. Remove the bowden tube. Then try to dislodge the ground filament while sucking them out. If that fails, try this Thanks for the advice, but I already removed the bowden tube, and I couldn’t remove the filament no matter what.

So I tried your last solution, and here is what I found :. I don’t understand how that could happen, but it seems the filament folded inside the feeder So I finally extracted the filament successfully, and launched a print with a new PVA spool : everything seems to work properly! PVA and Nylon need to be kept quite dry. Especially nylon. I don’t leave my PVA on the printer overnight if it’s not printing. I keep it in a sealed bag. Whenever I get new filament with new dessicant I move the dessicant packet to my nylon and pva bags as the PLA really doesn’t need it.

You can tell if PVA is too wet or any material because it sizzles and pops while printing and comes out more snowy than clear lots of micro steam bubbles. You can put it on a heated bed at 60C with a towel over it for 10 or 20 hours.

I suspect that will work. Assuming that’s the problem. PVA is annoying in that if it gets too dry it also fails gets brittle. I’m not sure this math is the correct way to calculate things for drying filament but it’s what I use.

That should be safe I would hope. It just might take many hours for the water to escape the pva – especially on the inner turns of filament deep in the spool. Anyway I’ve used this trick heat it to C for nylon to dry nylon to great success.

Thanks a lot! For now I will try putting the spool in an airtight pouch with dessicant for several days. If that doesn’t work I will try the heated bed. I would try the heated bed, then put into sealed bed with desiccant. If there is a lot of moisture in the PVA, it could take a while to get from the core to the edges.

Also, it could be enough to overwhelm the desiccant. You need to be a member in order to leave a comment. Sign up for a new account in our community.

It’s easy! Already have an account? Sign in here. SandervG posted a topic in Official news , April SandervG posted a topic in Official news , February 9, Share More sharing options Followers 3. Recommended Posts. Hi everyone, I’e got a serious problem with my last print with PVA on my Ultimaker 3 : the material stopped extruding after 1hr, and while trying to unload the PVA filament I realized it was stuck in the feeder. But I still couldn’t remove the filament, whatever side I pulled on : I guess that might be caused by a degradation of the filament by ambient humidity : the spool was left out in the open air for more than one month.

Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options First cut the filament a few cm above the feeder.

Ghene 24 Posted June 21, I’m glad it worked out. I better vacuum seal my remaining PVA filament then. Create an account or sign in to comment You need to be a member in order to leave a comment Create an account Sign up for a new account in our community.

Register a new account. Sign in Already have an account? Sign In Now. Go to topic listing. It would mean a lot! Picked By SandervG , April New here? Get ahead with a free onboarding course SandervG posted a topic in Official news , February 9, Hi, Often getting started is the most difficult part of any process.

A good start sets you up for success and saves you time and energy that could be spent elsewhere. They’re ready for you on the Ultimaker Academy platform. All you need to do to gain access is to register your product to gain free access. Register your product here in just 60 seconds. Picked By SandervG , August 17, View All.

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A visual Ultimaker troubleshooting guide – 3DVerkstan Knowledge Base.

 

Turn the screw so the marker is at the top. Get a nylon paint brush and vacuum cleaner. Remove the bowden tube. Then try to dislodge the ground filament while sucking them out. If that fails, try this Thanks for the advice, but I already removed the bowden tube, and I couldn’t remove the filament no matter what. So I tried your last solution, and here is what I found :. I don’t understand how that could happen, but it seems the filament folded inside the feeder So I finally extracted the filament successfully, and launched a print with a new PVA spool : everything seems to work properly!

PVA and Nylon need to be kept quite dry. Especially nylon. I don’t leave my PVA on the printer overnight if it’s not printing. I keep it in a sealed bag. Whenever I get new filament with new dessicant I move the dessicant packet to my nylon and pva bags as the PLA really doesn’t need it.

You can tell if PVA is too wet or any material because it sizzles and pops while printing and comes out more snowy than clear lots of micro steam bubbles. You can put it on a heated bed at 60C with a towel over it for 10 or 20 hours. I suspect that will work. Assuming that’s the problem. PVA is annoying in that if it gets too dry it also fails gets brittle.

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VAT excl. Wish list. Questions about the product. Product description. I have a brand new UM3 and after printing a couple of prints print head 1 stopped extruding pla silver that came with in the box.

After reading all the trouble shooting tips I did some maintenance thinking the nozzle was blocked. It turned out the feeder was grinding the filament and both feeders second is pva support structure. Now the solution looks to be adjusting the feeder tension, but I cannot find any documentation on how to do this. Are there any pictures or better videos on how to do this? To adjust the tension you should take your allen key and turn the screw there to position the pressure it should be at the middle.

Please note that the middle position is a rule of thumb and some filaments do require a bit of additional tension due to manufacturing or material differences. For a very large part of my print experience, the middle works wonders. But it may need a bit of playing with if you go off brand, or buy cheaper filaments, etc.

Thanks for your help, it seems to be working now. The PLA and PVA that came with the printer needs the tension changed from the middle to one notch up one down from your pic. JohnG – this is harder to diagnose than you might think. If the nozzle clogs it will grind. This is a replacement metal bracket with capacitive sensor board and capacitive sensor cable for Ultimaker 3 and Ultimaker 3 Extended printers.

This part uses an updated design with a metal bracket, nozzle seal, and metal nozzle seal adapter. The following parts make up the lifting switch mechanism on the printhead.

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Official Ultimaker 3 part compatible with: Ultimaker 3 Ultimaker 3 Extended Four DIN M2. This is the USB Ulticontroller. This is an official spare part for the Ultimaker 3 and Ultimaker 3 Extended. An official Ultimaker Spare Part, sold per motor. A radial fan 5V for use as the side fans on the Ultimaker 3 series printers for print cooling.

A pair of strong Bowden tube collets and blue retaining clips compatible with all Ultimaker series of machines. These collets have thick teeth to provide additional grip on the bowden tube for the most reliable printing experience. When installed in Note: If you have the original version of the S5 featuring the Ultibot logo on the side panels , we recommend This is the main electronics board for the Ultimaker 3 series of printers.